The First 42 hours

My first plane that took me to Croatia

Time is moving faster than a Kenyan in a foot race. I cannot believe I have been here for one whole day! Now I know some people are actually reading my blog! I will tell you right now, I am sorry, There is so much to say! So if i bore you lemme know! So where to begin!

The connecting flight from Frankfurt to Zagreb! Talk about tiny!

Flying over the majestic Alps on the way to Zagreb.

So after my long flight I was met at the gates by my parents friends. Talk about a wonderful family! They welcomed me as though I was a long lost friend! Yet after meeting so many people, I cannot tell if this is how friendly all Croats are. Truly these people do not know strangers! After a short car ride I was welcomed into the home of my host. As soon as they opened to gate the point to a tire sized crater in the welcome way and tell me this is where a mortar had landed 16 years earlier. A feeling of gratefulness overcame me, that I have never know the fear of my home being bombed and fearing for my life. It really sank in that the fighting was not on battle fields but on the doorways of the innocent. But more on that later, let me tell you about how truly remarkable the Gerber clan is (my host)! I was welcomed into his home and his wife Nada had cooked a truly wonderful meal! I then was given a quick tour of Karlovac before falling asleep. Now this is where things get interesting so if your still with me, just keep reading!

The two sheleves next to my head are Zwancos books!

I found myself awake at 6am the next day after sleeping for quite some time. I am sleeping in the families library and apparently my host, Zwanco, is one of the most acclaimed photographers in Croatia... I don't mean this guy is good, I mean this guy has two shelves of books that he has published by himself, not to mention how many other books he is the photographer for, This guy is fantastic! So after getting halfway through his books its now 8am and I have seen some of the most beautiful places in Croatia and also what he hates about his home country. I already felt as though I was peeling back the mask and seeing this place beyond the Frommers book guide and getting to know the country intimately. After a small breakfast of toast we headed to church. Zwanco gave me a history lesson the whole time we walked to mass until I found myself inside one of the most hauntingly beautiful churches I have seen. I promise photos soon, for my words really have no comparison for what is here. About 3 minutes into mass I start shaking all over my body. This is the church that I have seen with sand bags covering the alter and a paper cross in its place as to protect the church from the constant mortar fire. I start to realize this is where 15 years ago my mother was smuggling in supplies to the people of this town, many of which are in attendance in front of me. I wonder how many people here besides Zwanco knows of my family? The images of the people being given rations of food from the back of a truck my mother drove here under gun fire start to fade from a fairy tale into fiction.

The church, how it looked during the war

After mass we drank strong turkish coffee and even stronger Slivavits!

After mass I am shown around the church and introduced to people, all who, after Zwanco explains who I am, eye's seem to sparkle with remembrance of a forgotten time and smile at me. Zwanco then takes me to a back room to have Turkish coffee with some friends of his and to try some Croatian moonshine called slivavits. Both are strong, but the slivavits warms me from the inside, it is made from plum and has a sweet aftertaste. Then a lady who brought in a small plate of cakes forces me to eat two giant pieces of a vanilla cake with some of the most delicious cream frosting! I swear between the giant portions and wonder desserts I am going to be bigger than ever!



After, we leave the back room and Zwanco shows me his town. They own a small salon down the road from the church and it is quite modern compared to to storefronts around it. As we walk down the streets Zwanco tells me of what is going on in his country. There is still a fight against democracy going on, some preferred the old days of a near communist rule. The people are still upset at world war II and this anger is found on the graffiti that litters the streets, but mostly a WWII memorial that is covered in spray paint. Yet as I am being told of the current politics, I can not help but to notice that not a single building is not scarred. They all carry the mark of war, bullet holes, shrapnel marks, and damaged roofs. I cannot believe the places you see war marks, schools, churches, libraries, I do not fully understand both sides about this war but I cannot believe the absolute lack of discrimination this battle had on this city. Even buildings that look new you can see where holes are patched and painted over. Yet the city is full of life, every person on the street says hello. We have to stop and talk at least 4 times before walking a block back to Zwancos house.

WWII memorial in the center of the city.

The Country view from Nada's Parents Kitchen

Ham, peas and rice, and fried potatoes! Scrumtious!

We then head out to Nada's parents house for lunch. The house is located in the countryside off the beaten path. Chickens ran across the road as we pulled near the small farm house. Once inside Nada shows me the kitchen and how they still use a fire stove to heat and cook. After again we eat and they poor enough food onto my plate to feed a family, I really need to start giving myself portion sizes or invest on some good sweatpants because I eat to much every time! The meal was tomato soup with gnochhi noodles, ham from a pig they slaughtered earlier, rice and peas, fried potatoes with a gargantuan salad.

Nada, At her parents house cooking  over a real wood fire stove!

We had a wonderful conversation which later one of the Gerber's friends came over and also enjoyed the meal with us. I try so hard to listen to the Croatian language and make sense of it but so far I just wear myself out until I am exhausted. I am learning slowly some words but not nearly quick enough! After Zwanco takes me to the attic, literally a room open to the outside with the rest of the slaughtered pig hanging from the beams. The pig was smoked and is sitting in a freezing cold breeze from the outside. Zwanco tells me this is normal and that slaughtering pigs in this fashion is common for Eastern Europeans.

Leamon tasting doughnuts!

Freshly slaughtered and smoked ham sitting infront of an open window.

We left Nada's parents and headed home to meet Zwancos God son. I tell you all the cars are tiny and boy do they whip them around the cramped streets here! Again I find myself meeting a friend who is eager to show me his town. Our conversation drifted to business and we find we have much in common. We head to a local bar and watch handball for the next few hours. Handball looks like a game a gym teacher made up and is played on ESPN ocho, yet it is the third most popular sport in Europe, or so I am told, I am not convinced yet! After some beer and more business talk with my new found friend and his friend who joined us later we head back to Zwanco's. I am warm from the beer, It is made in this town and is similar to a Stella but without the skunky taste.

The homemade sausage from the slaughtered pig!

At Zwanco's we have a small dinner with some of the sausage from pig that was in the rafters earlier and toast. I again find myself amidst some of the most favorable conversation as we discuss everything from going to see the CroCop to possibly starting a gun holster business with my new friend. After dinner we had some delicious crepes with a sweet egg sauce, seriously the deserts are fantastic! I love them so, I love all the food thus far!

Cherry Crepes!

I know this is a lot of reading, much of it a catalog of today's events but I have always been horrible at telling stories, I give to much detail. Yet all of this is important to me. I realize this blog is more for me than anyone but like I said this is clearly a sunrise opportunity not a sunset. I find myself excited to shoot photography again. I am already planning new businesses, community service events, and even seeing the last fight of the CroCop! It has been one day, there is no way seven months of this and my life will be anything I foresaw. I am excited to see where these opportunities take me winds will carry me.
Benda Out